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Weingut Prager Achleiten Riesling Smaragd 2020

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Product Description

Overview

Winery: Prager

Weingut Prager Achleiten Riesling Smaragd is made from 100 percent Riesling. Franz Prager, co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein's passion for bio ersity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers.Smaragd is a designation of ripeness for dry wines used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. The wines must have a minimum alcohol of 12.5%. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October and November, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.Achleiten sits east of Weienkirchen and is one of the most famous vineyards in the Wachau. The steeply-terraced vineyard existed in Roman times. Some sections have just 40 cm of topsoil over the bedrock of Gfler Gneiss, amphibolitic stone, and slate. Destroyed soil, as Toni Bodenstein likes to say.Tasting Notes:Austrian Riesling is often defined by elevated levels of dry extract thanks to a lengthy ripening period and freshness due to dramatic temperature swings between day and night. Wines from Achleiten's highly complex soils are famously marked by a mineral note of flint or gun smoke, are intensely flavored, and reliably long-lived.Food Pairing:Riesling's high acidity makes it one of the most versatile wines at the table. Riesling can be used to cut the fattiness of foods such as pork or sausages and can tame some saltiness. Conversely, it can highlight foods such as fish or vegetables in the same way a squeeze of lemon or a vinaigrette might. Review: The 2020 Ried Achleiten Riesling Smaragd offers a well-concentrated, fleshy and spicy stone fruit aroma with crunchy and flinty notes. It needs some time to get rid of the stewed fruit flavors, though. Full-bodied, fresh and crystalline, this is an elegant, complex and finely tannic Riesling that needs some years rather than a carafe to polymerize the tannins and gain some finesse. Tasted at the domain in June 2021.At Prager, I could not determine that 2020 would be inferior to the 2019 vintage on the contrary, the 2020 Smaragd wines fascinated me enormously in their clear, cool, terroir-tinged way. A 38% loss had occurred mainly because of the hail on August 22, although predominantly in the Federspiel or Riesling vineyards. There was no damage in the top vineyards such as Ried Klaus, Achleiten or Zwerithaler. Interestingly, the vines are in agony for about two weeks after the hail. There was no more growth, no development of ripeness and sugar, reports Toni Bondenstein. The Veltliner then recovered earlier, while even picking a Riesling Federspiel in October was still a struggle. Why Riesling reacted more intensively to the hail, I don't know myself either, says Bodenstein. Whole clusters were pressed to preserve acidity and to compensate for the lower extract, and compared to 2019, the 2020s were left on their lees longer. In June, however, the 20s in particular showed outstanding early shape. Light yellow-green, silver reflections. Yellow stone fruit nuances with a mineral underlay, notes of peach and mango, a hint of tangerine zest, mineral touch. Juicy, elegant, white fruit, acidity structure rich in finesse, lemony-salty finish, sure aging potential.

Country: Austria
Region: Wachau
Winery: Prager
Grape Type: Riesling
Vintage: 2020
Bottle Size: 750 ml
Organic: YES

Thus, in the Wachau, vineyards follow vineyards – each a great soloist, together an unmistakable orchestra.

Viticulture on the edge of what is still possible

A single, artistically designed garden on the banks of the great river Danube: That is the Wachau. Weathered walls give the soil - worn down "primeval rock" - support and support. These terraces, which ubiquitously watch over the valley, act like the defensive lines of mighty fortifications.

This is where the wine of the Wachau matures: on barren soil, in the struggle with the forests, also with the cold that penetrates from the north, from Bohemia, over the hills of the Waldviertel to the Danube. Right here, on the edge of what is still possible, fine, distinctive wines of rare quality are created.

Dionysian expression of a unique landscape

Diverse contrasts in a small space, unique soil formations and a subtle microclimate characterize the “nursery” of the grapes. Wachau wine is correspondingly unmistakable.

The subtle differences between the individual vineyard sites are almost unfathomable, and their facets and nuances are enormously diverse. Whether Klaus or Achleiten, Steinriegl or Hollerin or the Riesling “Growth Bodenstein” grown at 460 meters above sea level: they all represent the Wachau and yet each location stands for itself – a uniqueness that is deeply rooted in the original.

The great thing about wine

Centuries ago, monks in the Wachau vineyards recognized quality limits and drew dividing lines. Because their striving was not only aimed at the best wine. Her passion was also the - sometimes clear, sometimes only very fine - differences between the individual sites and thus between the wines.

Whether intuition or myth, whether feeling or reality: What is certain is that a specific plant can only be pressed in a specific place at a specific time by one or more specific people. That's the great thing about wine.

From stone to wine

... that's the motto of Ilse and Toni Bodenstein. Their goal: to bring individual, unmistakable wines into the glass, which must be a reflection of their respective origin. The work in the vineyard and cellar follows traditional paths, but is supplemented with necessary and sensible innovations - always striving for the best possible quality.

Riesling and Grüner Veltliner

The special appreciation of the Prager winery belongs to the Grüner Veltliner and the Riesling. Anno 1302 - on the occasion of the first documentary mention of the building "located on the Chling in the Ritzling, belonging to the Michaelbeuern monastery, with the ship mill in pertinenz" - the origin of the Riesling here in the Wachau is suspected in the name Ritzling. 

"Riesling" comes from "to tear", from trickling through the flower. At least that is the explanation given by the ampelographers. Riesling is rightly considered the king of white wine varieties. Its late maturity and high demands on soil and climate make it an individualist. Characteristic are its elegance and finesse, its mineral play and the delicate scent of white peaches. 

The second typical regional grape variety that has been cultivated in the Prager winery for generations is Grüner Veltliner. Particularly noteworthy are the up to 60-year-old vines of this variety in the Achleiten and Zwerithaler sites. The great age of the vines gives the wine an incomparable density and a particularly pronounced minerality.

For Toni Bodenstein, the great genetic diversity of these old vines is particularly important, because hardly any of these old vines are alike. Therefore, old vine stocks represent an important genetic reserve for the future!

secret of the terroir 

Tradition and innovation are equally among the strengths of the winery. With the possibilities of modernity and the knowledge of previous generations, Toni Bodenstein tries to track down the secret of the terroir, to fathom the fathomable, to approach the unfathomable. His passion: to produce unmistakable wines in a unique landscape, which are a reflection of the vineyard from which they come.

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