Clos Saint-Jean Deus-Ex Machina Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2019
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Clos Saint-Jean is a 41-hectare estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape run by brothers Vincent and Pascal Maurel. Considered by many critics and wine-writers as the preeminent estate espousing the modern style of winemaking in Châteauneuf, this cellar is one of the oldest in the region, having been founded in 1900 by the greatgreat-grandfather of Vincent and Pascal, Edmund Tacussel. A short time after its founding and well before the AOP of Chateauneuf-du-Pape was created in 1923, Edmund began bottling estate wines in 1910.
The farming at Clos Saint-Jean is fully sustainable due to the warm and dry climate, which prevents the need for chemical inputs. Instead, Vincent and Pascal employ organic methods for pest control, mainly pheromones, to prevent pests from taking up residence in their vines, a process called amusingly enough in French, confusion sexuelle. The vines tended manually, and harvest is conducted in several passes entirely by hand.
Deus ex Machina is a literary and dramatic term for a miraculous intervention that interrupts a logical course of events in a plot or play. A suitable name for a cuvée that had it’s start in the torrid vintage of 2003 when Philippe Cambie and Vincent Maurel made the decision to harvest at the end of September, weeks after their neighbors. Deus ex Machina is a blend of old vine Grenache from La Crau, aged in tank with equally ancient Mourvedre from the sandy soils of BoisDauphin aged in demi-muid. Deus ex Machina is only made in the best vintages.
Review:
Also pure perfection in a glass, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Deus-Ex Machina is a 60/40 split of Grenache and Mourvèdre, from tiny yields and the famed La Crau lieu-dit, that’s raised in a mix of concrete tanks and demi-muids. My notes on this wine were loaded with expletives and finishes with “awesome, just awesome.” Blackcurrants, kirsch liqueur, licorice, spiced meat, and Provençal garrigue all define this incredible achievement, and it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, remarkable purity, building, silky tannins, and a mammoth-sized finish. More Mourvèdre spice box and garrigue notes emerge with time in the glass, and while it has the fruit to offer pleasure now, it will benefit from a solid 4-5 years of bottle age and cruise for 20-25 years if stored correctly. Along with the 2007, 2010, and 2016, this is a legendary Châteauneuf du Pape. Hats off to the Maurel family and oenologue Philippe Cambie.
-Jeb Dunnuck 100 Points
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